A Wanderer's Bookmark - 04

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A Wanderer's Bookmark - 02

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A Weekend in Quaint Kasauli

Almost mid-way between Chandigarh and Shimla, Kasauli is a hilly cantonment town in Solan district and to the south-west of Himachal Pradesh. Surrounded by beautiful forests of oak, pine and cedar trees, Kasauli is a little hidden gem in the Shivalik hills. Victorian structures from the British era speak volumes of the glorious past of this hill station. They augment the mystical and serene ambience of the place. Pictures cannot do justice to reflect the peacefulness this place offers. Bags packed, I travel from 30℃ in Mumbai to soothe my nerves in 5℃ of quaint Kasauli.  

Reaching Kasauli

With proper planning, those residing in West / South / East zones of India can experience the serene environment and enchanting calmness of Kasauli, that too within budget. 

There are no fixed trains from other major cities to Kasauli. You can get on to an express train like Shatabdi Express, get off at Kalka (26 kms away) and drive down to Kasauli. Other train stations from where you can cab it to Kasauli are Sonwara (4 kms away) and Koti (6 kms away).

I flew in to Chandigarh around 11:45 a.m. Two hours of pleasant cab drive (approx. 60 kms) through woody forests and misty mountain air on a clear day and I was at Kasauli.

On way, at Dharampur I passed by the famous Giani da Dhaba, which is one of the oldest dhabas on the Shimla-Kalka Highway. It is now relocated a little away from its original place. 

Further ahead, situated at a height of 1750 metres and spread over an area of 139 acres, is The Lawrence School at Sanawar. Established in 1847, this heavily forested private boarding school’s history, influence, and wealth has made it one of the most prestigious schools in Asia.

Accommodation

There are ample accommodation choices available in Kasauli. From small cottages to guest houses to luxurious resorts, Kasauli has something to offer to everyone. One can also choose to stay at any of the well maintained and reasonably priced hotels associated with HP Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC). Some of the options include Maurice Hotel, Hotel R Maiden, Hotel Alasia and The Ros Common.

I stayed at The Ros Common, which is a colonial bungalow with its own old world charm along the Lower Mall road. This somewhat centrally located place, from local tourist spots, offers solitude without compelling one to become a recluse while appreciating the beauty of Kasauli.

Exploring Kasauli

At The Ros Common

Day 1: Since it’d rained the previous evening, the weather was nicely cold as I got on to the route leading to Kasauli. I put on my jacket as the car moved up hill towards Kasauli. I reach The Ros Common estate around 2:30 p.m. With the preliminaries underway, I make myself comfortable in the cosy and clean room facing the garden scattered with bright yellow flowers.

Having relished the freshly cooked warm meal, I laze around in the room for a while. It was getting cold and dark as the evening set in… After a hot cuppa evening chai in the cold weather, I walk around and explore the colonial property and the vicinity where I am staying.

Back at the hotel, it felt good to sit in the garden and enjoy the silence of the evening… it was getting chilly and so, post an early dinner, I return to the heater warmed room to retire for the day. Snuggled in a lohi quilt, I drift away into dreamland. 

Day 2: Post a good night’s sleep, I wake up early to birds chirping in the nicely cold weather. All happy and fresh, I decide to go for a walk on the road leading to Manki point. A healthy breakfast of warm paranthas and hot chocolate followed the leisurely morning walk. With no particular deadline to be met, I enjoy the early morning sunlight in the hotel garden before getting ready to explore the place.

My first stop is Hotel Alasia followed by the Christ Church.

Hotel Alasia: My first stop is the Hotel Alasia, which has a very plaid history and goes back to 1873, when the building was constructed. Towards late 1930, this was used as banking establishment. In 1938, C.J. Tidwell purchased the property. He was granted permission to convert the Bank into a Hotel in November 1941. The Hotel was named `Alasia' in honour of Pearl Alasia, a shrewd businesswoman and a close associate of Tidwell. What I found interesting here was the dummy thermometer near its outer wall at the entrance. The thermometer is a gift from Stephens Ink and has interesting measures for temperature reading.

Christ Church: Ahead on the Mall road, I visit the Christ Church, also known as the Church of England. The church with its plush interiors and stained glass paintings is a treat for art lovers. The architecture of this Church is influenced by a blend of Indian and Victorian styles. A coppice of chestnut and fir trees surround this 159-year-old structure that was established by British families who laid the foundation of Kasauli town.

Kalyan Café: Moving ahead as I stroll through the market place, I pass through the Kalyan Café, which has a statue of dog in its courtyard. The story goes such that, the owner was robbed off his money and his loyal dog sniffed out the thieves and saved him from loss. In remembrance of his faithful friend, the owner had a true to size statue of the dog made in England and installed it at his café. 

There’s also a statue of hockey wizard Captain Dhyanchand at the circle.

From here, I set out to explore the Upper Mall road that has most of the scenic points and important structures in Kasauli.

With ardour in the air, nature walk amidst the most picture-perfect surroundings is one of the most amazing things to experience in Kasauli. As I begin my ascend along the Upper Mall road, I pass by the CRI and Kasauli Club to reach the Sunset Point before heading further to explore the Gilbert Trail.

Central Research Institute (CRI): Central Research Institute was established in 1905 by Major David Semple. It is a premier National Institute engaged in many R&D activities. The anti-rabies inoculation was invented and is still made here. Also many anti snake bite vaccinations are made here. The CRI is well known for its Anti Rabic Vaccine, Yellow Fever Vaccine, Bacterial Vaccines like Anti Cholera and Anti Typhoid Vaccine, Prophylactic and Therapeutic Vaccine (for four commonly known poisonous snakes). One can also see the Doordarshan Tower near the CRI complex.

Kasauli Club: Established by civilians and service personnel in 1880, this is one of the famous clubs in Himachal Pradesh. Only members and the military officers serving in Kasauli are entertained here. Located in the Indian Army cantonment, Kasauli Club is on the Upper Mall at a height of 6142 feet. The water hydrant near the club is as functional as it was centuries ago.

Thus, non-members / tourists like me can have a photo-opportunity at the entrance and near the water hydrant, before moving on to the next point.

Sunset Point: Located on the Upper Mall road, 100 mts ahead of Kasauli Club is the Sunset Point. Sunset view from this place is a moment to treasure. After the sun sets one can see an eagle eye view of the far but clear bright lights of Chandigarh, Panchkula, Baddi, Nalagarh, Kalka and Pinjore. In fact once can clearly see Sukhana Lake as well. I visited the place on morning and the view then also was as breath-taking.

 

Gilbert Trail: I was told that the best time to visit Gilbert Trail is early morning just when the birds are waking up and chirping away. A little later in the morning, I reach the Gilbert Trail set amidst lofty hills, thick woods, and rich flora & fauna. It was serene yet engaging to walk through the gravelled muddy road of the nature trail. Cautiously treading along the route to reach the Land’s End point on Gilbert Trail is one of the best things to do in Kasauli. With some young college kids and a knowledgeable professor for company, I move along the along the narrow winding paths of rocky cliffs to reach the Land’s End point on Gilbert Trail. The serene and refreshing walk offers the best panoramic views of Himalayan peaks in the distance.

The Upper Mall road is lined with colonial and heritage residential properties owned by ex-army men and by families of some elite personalities, such as Khushwant Singh. All along the road, you see sign boards paying homage to our brave army men. If you are at Kasauli over the weekend, you can opt to view the Army Band performance in the evening on Friday, Saturday or Sunday at Upper Mall road. 

Some other places that you can walk around in Kasauli are the Manki Point, Sunrise Point and Kasauli Mall road.

• Manki / Monkey Point: Situated 4 kms from the bus stand along the Lower Mall road, Manki / Monkey point has a small temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. With the top of the hill shaped like a foot, local legend has it that while fetching the Sanjeevani herb for Laxman, Lord Hanuman's foot touched this spot. Being the highest point of Kasauli, you can soak in some scenic views here. The mighty Satluj River is seen coursing its way through the massive mountains. Fresh mountain breeze coupled with the echoing of temple bells is a serene experience that should not be missed.

• Sunrise Point: Situated on the Lower Mall road, approx. 350 mts ahead of The Ros Common is the Sunrise Point. It was formerly called as Hawa Ghar, since the point witnesses’ year round air current through it.

• Kasauli Market / Mall Road: For a small town that it is, the mall road provides flattering options for shopping and eating out. While most areas in Kasauli are off-beat, one must not miss this colourful hustle bustle of the town. The market is at its vibrant best during early evenings and an evening stroll here is highly recommended. I visited the Jakkimull’s, which is the largest and a three generation old outlet in Kasauli that stocks up almost everything a tourist may need. I bought some yummy local Bhuira jams and marmalades, Rajma, Seabuckthorn tea and Chuli Oil (Apricot Seed oil that is known to soothe joint pains). Bhuira and Minchy’s are well known local brands for jams, marmalades and pickles. Kasauli is also famous for its assortment of locally produced and reasonably priced fruit wines. Some of the popular flavors are apple wine, plum wine, sherry wine, peach wine, and black grape wine. The Lower Mall road is peppered with several Tibetan shops selling small handicrafts, woollens, hand woven shawls, stoles, and scarves.

Evening once am back at the hotel, I drop on the bed exhausted yet exhilarated with all the walking and exploring and breathing in the distinctly pure forest air. After a while, I freshen up and change into comfortable warm clothes to settle in for an early dinner. Slurping on the warm soup and I gaze far away in the clear, cold, starlit sky. Far into the horizon, Shimla lights were shimmering away marking the town’s presence from afar.

At Yadavindra Gardens (Pinjore Gardens)

Day 3: With a heavy heart, I pack my bags to head home from quaint, peaceful and soothing Kasauli. Post a light breakfast while basking in the warm sunshine, I check out of The Ros Common and head back to Chandigarh.

On way I make a pit stop at Yadavindra Gardens, formerly known as Pinjore Gardens, which was renovated by the Patiala Dynasty Jat Sikh Rulers. This historic 17^th century garden located in Pinjore city of Panchkula district reflects the Mughal Gardens architectural style. Nawab Fadai Khan, a great architect and foster brother of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb is said to have designed the garden on the classical Charbagh pattern. Both sides of the central waterway are covered with green areas bordered with flowers and shaded by trees. Nawab Fadai Khan Nawab Fadai Khan supervised the construction of the aesthetic Sheesh Mahal, the Rang Mahal, and the cube-like Jal Mahal. Post a quick bite at the garden restaurant, I head to Chandigarh airport to board my flight to Mumbai…

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Kasauli is an ideal getaway when you need a break from the hectic city life. You realize the tranquility of Kasauli even more, when you are hit by Mumbai’s sweltering 35℃ and the perpetually stuck in traffic life... 

Breezing Through Bhopal

With god forsaken flight timing when you can’t fly out or in from a destination at decent hours, what do you do? Explore the city while managing your other commitments….  And that’s what I did when at Bhopal. After devoting required time for my meetings there, I’d at hand almost nine hours (three in morning & six in evening) before I flew back home.

The city of lakes was founded in the 11^th century by the illustrious Paramara King of Malwa, Raja Bhoja. The town has distinct landscapes that entice you in their own way. The old city towards North, is fascinating with its mosques, large havelis, meandering lanes, chowks and crowded bazaars. The new city is nestled in the Arera and Shamla Hills area, which overlook the lakes and the old city. Wide roads of well-planned and clean new Bhopal are adorned with swanky shopping complexes, luxurious hotels and restaurants. The central district is known as New Market.

I made the most of my time at Bhopal by visiting the following places… Of course it helped to have a vehicle at my disposal throughout out... My driver Manish also doubled up as a part time photographer for the trip as he took me around the City of Lakes... 

Manua Bhan Tekri

Manua Bhan Tekri

A calming place with great environment and greenery in the Lalghati area, Manua Bhan Tekri is also known as Mahaveer Giri. A concrete road allows you to access the hill with ease. Situated at an elevation of 1300 feet is a Jain temple with Bhagwan Mahaveer as the main deity. You need to climb several steep steps to reach the peaceful temple sanctorum. Opposite the temple base is a small garden with swings and slides that serves as a good picnic spot for family. The view from the top is amazing.

Gufa Mandir

Gufa Mandir

Close to Lalghati Square, Gufa Mandir is a clean, scenic and peaceful place to spend some “me time”. Situated on a small hill top, away from the city, the place offers a pleasant view of Bhopal. You need to climb approximately 100 steps to visit Gufa Mandir, which is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It has idols of Shri Ram & Devi Sita along with Hanuman ji. There are small shrines of Ladoo Gopal and Lord Vishnu with Devi Lakshmi as well.

Taj-ul-Masajid
One of the largest mosque in Asia, Taj-ul-Masajid represents skillful

Taj-ul-Masajid

Mughal architecture spread over 23, 300 sq ft. The mosque’s name means “Crown Among Mosques”. Taj-ul-Masajid is a massive, 19^th-century red-stone mosque featuring white domes, imposing minarets & carved arches. The Mosque has a pink facade topped by two 18-storey high octagonal minarets with marble domes. The Mosque also has three huge round domes, an impressive main hallway with attractive pillars and marble flooring. The courtyard has a large water tank in the centre. The Quibla wall in the prayer hall is carved with eleven recessed arches and has fine screens of trellis work. The massive pillars in the hall hold 27 ceilings through squinted arches of which 16 are decorated with ornate petal designs.

Lower Lake (Chota Talab)
Lower Lake, also known as Chota Talab, lies in the heart of Bhopal towards the east end of Upper Lake. Constructed during the year 1794, the lake is spread over a catchment area of 9.6 sq km and bordered by the magnificent Kamala garden. A few spots provide for a good photo opportunity. Lower lake provides exciting boating facilities in sail, paddle and motorboats. Human settlements on all sides has somewhere disturbed the natural charm of the lake.

Birla Mandir (Lakshmi Narayan Temple)

Birla Mandir (Lakshmi Narayan Temple)
Set atop Arera Hills, amidst well maintained lawns and fountains; Birla Mandir is a peaceful place of worship. The temple devoted to goddess Lakshmi & Shri Vishnu also has shrines of Shiv-Parvati. Enchanting lawns encircle the yellow and maroon coloured temple. This holy place is frequented by people who want to get a panoramic view of the Bhopal city. 

Birla Museum
Adjoining Lakshmi Narayan Temple is the Birla Museum. A well maintained, compact property that showcases several objects from the primitive period. On display are primitive tools and gears used during the Paleolithic and Neolithic period, an astounding scale model of the Bhimbetka rock shelter with its ancient murals and stone sculptures from the 7th to 13th century collected from the various archaeological sites. Coins and manuscripts and Terracotta belonging to 2nd century BC to the 6th century AD are also exhibited.

MP Tribal Museum

MP Tribal Museum

This unique, must-see Tribal Museum in Bhopal is an intriguing vast expanse of impressively done art installations housed in a well architected building. The museum displays historical and rich cultural narratives depicting diverse aspects of tribes inhabiting the state of Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh. Also known as the ‘Janjaatiya Sanghralaya’ the museum oozes expertise and subtlety in depicting the world of indigenous tribes. Tribal dwellings, marriage venues, memorial monuments and places of worship are recreated with authentic objects arranged artistically.

Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya
The Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya (IGRMS) on the Shamla Hills, is the National Museum of Mankind. It is one of the largest and leading Anthropological Museums in India, which focuses on recollection of the past rather than collection. Spread across 200 acres, it is a one-of-its-kind museum that depicts the story of mankind in time and space and also has numerous pre-historic painted rock shelters. IGRMS has a few permanent exhibitions, broadly categorized as Open-exhibitions, Indoor galleries (Veethi-Sankul and Bhopal Gallery) and Periodical/ Temporary exhibitions.

Bharat Bhavan
A beautiful and unique looking cultural complex, built and designed exclusively by world renowned architect Charles Correa, Bharat Bhavan is a multi-art centre that offers a platform for interactive proximity between the verbal, visual and performing arts. This cultural complex provides space for contemporary expression, thought, quest and innovation. For Bharat Bhavan, Charles Correa has designed a series of terraced gardens, which cascade down to the lake. Visitors enter at the highest level and walk down a pedestrian spine, flanked by a pattern of courtyards linked by meandering paths. You can sit along the stairs to enjoy the sunset on the placid lake. Seize these moments when the eyes rest and the mind contemplates.

Upper Lake (Bada Talab)
Built by Raja Bhoj in 11^th century, the Upper Lake is famed as ‘Bada Talab’. Spread over 36 sq km, the lake is surrounded by beautiful royal garden and Kamla Park. It is a perfect place to relax and enjoy various water sports like Kayaking, Canoeing, Rafting, Water rafting, skiing that are conducted by The National School Sailing at the Boat Club. Bada Talab, one of the most beautiful lakes in Bhopal, also serves as a major source of water serving almost 40% of the residents. Both the Bada Talab and Chota Talab combined together forms the Bhoj Wetland of Bhopal city.

You may want to visit the following place when visiting Bhopal for a day or two –

• Jehan Numa Palace Hotel and Noor-Us-Sabah Palace Hotel are known for their food spread. You may want to relish a meal at these properties or just visit them to experience royalty.
• At a distance of almost 50 kms, Sanchi Stupa is 1.5 hours away from Bhopal towards North-east. If you have almost 4 hours (3 hours of to & fro travel and an hour at the place) to spare, this should be on your list of must visit places when in Bhopal.
• Close to 45 kms south of Bhopal, Bhimbetka is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Situated in midst of rocky terrain with steep cliffs and dense forests, Bhimbetka has over 600 rock shelters belonging to the Neolithic age. The cave paintings are mainly executed in red & white with occasional use of green & yellow with themes taken from the everyday events of that age.

Splendid Spiti Valley Sojourn

At a height of 2745 metres above sea level, Spiti Valley is a cold desert, mountain valley, located high in the north-eastern part of Himalayan mountain range in Himachal Pradesh. The name "Spiti" means "The Middle Land", i.e. the land between Tibet and India. Travelling through Spiti is an extraordinary experience. With some of the most stunning landscapes you’ll ever see, every frame, every corner of the region is sheer bliss….

You will –

• Find your perfect postcard shots in the picturesque villages of Chitkul, Nako, Mudh, Kaza, Langza, Kibber  
• Experience peace at the primeval monasteries of Tabo, Dhankar, and Key.
• Visit world’s highest (connected) village – Komic and the highest post office – Hikkim
• Discover tranquillity at the clear and perfectly blue Chandratal Lake and peaceful Dhankar Lake

Travelling to Spiti Valley had been on my bucket list for a few years. So, this year when I could swing things and make it happen, there was no way I was going to let it pass…. Post some rounds of calls & e-mails exchange with Mukesh & Lara Tsering of Spiti Valley Tours, the travel itinerary was finalized. Flight tickets booked and bags packed… Thus begun the 10 days Spiti Valley sojourn.

Day 1: Chandigarh – Shimla (114 kms | 04 hours)

I land in Chandigarh by noon and think of checking out the Sukhana Lake and the Rock and Rose Gardens (if time permits) before heading to Shimla. Bags tucked in the spacious, white Innova, I head towards Sukhana Lake. Sukhna Lake is a reservoir at the foothills of the Himalayas. This 3 kms rain fed lake was created in 1958 by damming the Sukhna Choe, a seasonal stream coming down from the Shivalik Hills.

The traffic cops caught hold of our Innova driver for not being dressed in uniform. By the time I saw the lake and came back, he was still in conversation with the traffic policeman to sort the issue. Eventually, we ended up visiting the Traffic Challan office to get done with the necessary formalities to be able to proceed with the journey…

Not a good start we thought… Fingers crossed and hoping for the best, we proceed towards Shimla post a pit stop for lunch on the way. Due to heavy rains, poor visibility, rock falls and slippery routes, our journey slowed down considerably. Took us over 6 hours to reach Shimla. In midst of heavy downpour, it was a tricky route to even reach Hotel Rock Castle, where we were staying for the night.

Day 2: Shimla – Sangla Valley (225 kms | 7.5 hours)

Breakfast done, our journey technically begun now as we drove from Shimla to Sangla Valley following the Shimla-Kufri-Fagu-Narkanda-Rampur-Jeori-Karcham-Kinnaur route.

Hatu Devi Temple - Narkanda

About 65 kms from Shimla, Narkanda is surrounded by the Shivalik Range. Our driver suggested visiting the Hatu Devi temple on the Hatu Peak in Narkanda. At a distance of 7 kms and 3400 metres above sea level, Hatu Peak is the highest point in Narkanda. It gives a stunning view of mountains covered in snow and its surroundings. We drove through clouds; amidst blue pine, deodhar, fir and spruce trees to the beautiful, wood carved Hatu Devi (Mandodari) temple.

Hanuman Idol - Kinnaur NH5

We passed through a gigantic Hanuman idol on the route. Around 40 kms from Rampur, every single vehicle passing through Kinnaur’s NH5 pays obeisance to Chandralekha Devi at the Taranda Temple before proceeding ahead. Jawans from Indian army manage the temple constructed in 1965 by Border Road Organization (BRO). 

It was way past noon and hunger pangs were setting in. Lunch break was at the (highly recommended) Choti Wale’s Dhaba at Sarahan, where we had some amazing Makke di Roti topped with dollops of ghee & Sarso da Saag followed by nice hot glass of chai. This non-descript family run dhaba is a must visit if you wish to relish some delicious food.

Driving through scenic and temple lined route for over 8 hours, we reached Hotel Royal Castle at Sangla to halt for the night.

Day 3: Sangla to Chitkul (28 kms | 02 hours) and Chitkul to Kalpa (62 kms |03 hours)

Enroute Kamru Fort

We jumpstart our morning with a small trek to the 800 years old Kamru fort, which also hosts Kamakshi Devi temple.

Post a sumptuous breakfast we head to Chitkul. At a height of 3450 meters, this is the last village on the Indo-Tibet border. The route from Sangla Valley to Chitkul offers breath-taking views of the Baspa River running through the lush green Sangla Valley covered with pink flowers and of clear blue skies speckled with white clouds. The valley offers an unsurpassed view of the Baspa River with vistas of snow-clad mountains on the left and apple orchards and wooden houses on the right.

Kagyupa Temple - Chitkul

On reaching Chitkul, we head to the peaceful Kagyupa Temple where Shakyamuni Buddha is worshipped.

We then walk down to the riverfront for amazing views of the Baspa riverside. After spending some time there, we enjoy a nice warm lunch amidst afternoon rain showers. Chitkul is a heavenly place where you can spend hours and days and not want to leave!

Maha Bodhi Monastery at Rekong Peo

After visiting the Maha Bodhi Monastery at Rekong Peo, we offer prayers at Narayan-Nagini temple and Hu-Bu-Lan-Kar monastery at Kalpa. Here, we bump into Ayush & Nitin from Mumbai, who kept meeting us at different places over next few days.

With a cloud obstructed view of Kinnaur Kailash, we call it a day at Hotel RollingRang.

Day 4: Kalpa to Nako (100 kms | 3.5 hours) and Nako to Tabo (65 kms | 1.5 hours)

Kinnaur Kailash - Kalpa 

Stuffed with hot parathas and chai, we drive from Kalpa to the nearby Suicide Point, which is known for its vertical slope and dangerous ditch. Next we pass through Roghi Village known for its apple orchards. We park the car for almost half an hour in vain, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Kinnaur Kailash peak.

View of the Khab Sangam from Khab Bridge

Our next stop is at Khab Bridge to view the Khab Sangam – the confluence of rivers Spiti (flowing through the Spiti valley) and Sutlej (originating from Mansarovar Lake in Tibet).

Nako Lake - Nako

From Khab we move to Nako, which is the largest village at an elevation of 3,625 metres in the Hangrang Valley. We have Dal-Chawal for soul at the Nako Dhaba, and then proceed to see the Nako Monastery (which was shut) and the Nako Lake.

We then drive to Tabo and check in to Hotel Tiger's Den for the night. With time at hand, we set out to explore the Old Monastery that was a 5 minute walk from the hotel.

Hotel Tiger's Den - Tabo

At the Tabo Monastery (Old), we meet Shashank from Andhra Pradesh. An interesting character, who quit his job at an architecture firm to follow his calling. At Tabo for 40 days, Shashank befriended the monks and taught some basic subjects to the young lamas at the monastery. 

With Shashank & young lamas

Shashank enlightened us on lives of the monks and introduced us to Tashi Deley (Wishing you happiness) and Julley (Hello). He simplified the meaning of Om Mani Padme Hum. Shashank shared the monastery timings so that we could visit both the (old and new) monasteries in morning. He suggested exploring the Buddhist caves nearby. 

Thoughts brimming with Shashank’s conversation, it was time to satiate our tummy and call it an early night. 

Day 5: Tabo to Dhankar (30 kms | 01 hour) and Dhankar to Mudh Village (51 kms | 2.5 hours)

Old Monastery - Tabo

Over a thousand years old, Tabo is one of the most important Buddhist monastery. It was an early morning for us as we visit the Old and New monasteries at Tabo to participate in the morning prayers offered by Lamas. At the Old monastery, which dates back to 996 A.D., a Lama was reading old manuscripts in light from a single flame burning from the lamp. The sound of prayer recitals in the wee hours of morning, transports you to a different zone. 

New Monastery - Tabo

In the peaceful and serene assembly hall at the New Monastery, lamas of all age were seated and reading prayers from the manuscripts. After a while, we were served tea.

Post a 15 minutes gradual ascent on the hills, we explore the easily accessible Tabo Caves. Monks carved these caves in the hills for purpose of meditation. It is believed to be used as abode for the Buddhist monks during Himalayan winters. The caves are used even today for meditation by monks.

Morning meditation and trek done, we head back to our hotel to freshen up and have breakfast before heading to Dhankar.

Stupa near Dhankar Lake

Dhankar Lake

The New Monastery at Dhankar also happens to be the base from where the 3 kms trek to Dhankar Lake begins. At the height of 4136 meters in middle of hills, Dhankar Lake can be reached by climbing a steep, narrow trail scattered with loose pebbles. Many consider it an easy hike. But the climb can make you breathless within a few seconds. For people who are not used to steep climbs, hike to the lake can be physically challenging. However, the hike is worth the view for those who don’t quit. Set amidst green meadows, the fish shaped Dhankar Lake leaves you appreciative of the alluring display of colours and the landscape. After spending some peaceful time by the lake, we begin descent. A sumptuous lunch at the New Monastery Guesthouse followed by a quick visit to the Old Monastery at Dhankar, we proceed to the Mudh Village.

Atop the terrace at Tara Guest House

As we near Tara Guest House, we see Ayush and Nitin chilling on its terrace. After checking into our room, we head to terrace for a chatty evening with Ayush (Engineering student and an aspiring actor) & Nitin (Insurance surveyor) who are joined by Camille (a decade old solo traveller from France), Jayesh (solo traveller) from (Amazon) Bangalore and a couple from Delhi. Over several rounds of hot, piping adrak chai in the pleasantly cold evening, we share our Spiti experience and travel tales.

Spitian houses in Mudh village near the Pin Valley National Park, offer good choice of food, a grand view of the lofty peaks and a pleasant home-stay. Tara Guest House is one of the best and highly recommended home stays in the Mudh village.

The night was getting cold and the clear sky was studded with dazzling stars. At dinner table, we meet Mallik a solo traveller Nagpur and a few Israelis who share their travel stories. Happy with a hearty meal of Tibetan pizza and Momos, we call it day in the nicely freezing night in Mudh.

Day 6: Mudh Village to Kaza (50 kms | 05 hours) via Key Monastery & Kibber

An early morning walk through the green pea’s field to the Parvati river bank and a photo session on the local wooden bridge… The serene, barren and beautiful Mudh village in the Pin Valley offers some splendid views that set adrenaline rushing.

Key Gompa

From Mudh, we head to the picturesque Key Gompa located at an altitude of 4116 metres, close to the Spiti River. This Buddhist monastery has a distinction of being the oldest and the biggest in the Lahaul and Spiti district. It is home to around 300 lamas who receive their religious education here.

At Kibber

Next on our list for the day was the beautiful village of Kibber situated at a height of 4205 meters above sea level. It holds the distinction of being the second highest motorable village in the world. We head to Kaza after a sumptuous lunch at this tranquilly scenic village situated in a cold desert, surrounded by quaint mountains, barren landscapes, and green meadows.

Situated along the Spiti River at an elevation of 3,650 metres, Kaza is the largest township and commercial centre of the valley. Having checked in at Hotel Old Monk, we set out to explore the Kaza market. We also meet Mukesh & Lara Tsering of Spiti Valley Tours for a chitchat and clearing the balance payment.

Post sorting our stay at Manali for an extra day to accommodate the slight change in our itinerary, we again go to Kaza market. Wandering around, we stumble upon Sol Café, a cool little coffee shop, offering super-strong coffee, variety of teas, items made from sea-buckthorn, and light dishes such as French toast, pancakes and whole-wheat baked goods. You can buy stationery, small goodies and many varieties of sweets. We liked the idea where you can write your thoughts /wishes for the world on a colourful paper and stick it on the café’s ceiling. Another interesting thing at the café was presence of a book shelf to exchange old books for free. Sol Café is an amazingly cosy place that you wouldn’t want to miss visiting when at Kaza. We make our way back to hotel to hog on freshly made dinner served with warmth and love.

Day 7: Kaza to Komic via Langza and Hikkim (45 kms | 06 hours)

Kaza Monastery

The newly built Sakya Tenggyu Monastery at Kaza (2009) leaves us speechless with its crisp Buddhist designs in lively colours that highlights the painstaking detail throughout the elegant structure. It is one of the stunning and peaceful monasteries in the region.

We start out to explore the unconventional, high-altitude villages of Langza, Komic and Hikkim. These can be easily explored at an easy pace in half a day from Kaza.

Buddha Statue - Langza

Apart from the breath-taking landscape, the presence of the magnificent 1000 year old Lord Buddha statue in the meadow gives Langza a heavenly feel. Langza is located above 14,000 feet in Spiti Valley at the crossroads between Tibet and India. Lara’s Homestay at Langza is one of the premium properties that you can check out if you wish to spend a day in the ‘Switzerland of Spiti’. Langza is also well known for its rich fossil reserves that can be found speckled near the village.

At Komic

From Langza we head to Komic. Situated at an altitude of 4587 meters, Komic is the highest village in the world connected by a motorable road. The village houses Tangyud Monastery and has a population of 60 odd people spread across 15 houses. Komic with its high vantage points is a blessing for sky gazers and photographers to witness some stunning views of the Spiti Valley.

At Hikkim Post Office

About 4 kms from Komic and at an altitude of about 4440 meters is Hikkim, which is known for housing the highest post office in the world and also for being the highest polling station of the world. We walk down the extremely steep road to the post office where they have postcards on sale. Pick your postcard and send it anywhere in the world. It’s a must do thing at Hikkim as it’s not every day you get to send a post card from the world’s highest post office.

From Hikkim, we drive to Lara’s Homestay at Langza for lunch. Post resting for a while, we decide to move back to Kaza. As the main road was shut, we travel via Hikkim bypass road to reach Hotel Old Monk. Our souls lost in the beauty of these unusual villages, we drift into dreams of yet another place to travel the next day.

Day 8: Kaza to Chandrataal Lake (~80 kms | 06 hours)

We left Kaza in the wee hours of morning to brave the treacherous road to Chandratal. The route is all mud and rocks and waterfalls and pagal nalas! Our aim is to cross Losar before the road immerses in water from melting glaciers. Post crossing Losar we stop for breakfast and then proceed to Chandratal via Kunzum La.

Kunzum Devi Temple

At a height of 4590 meters, Kunzum Pass (Tibetan: Kunzum La), connects the Kullu Valley and Lahaul Valley with the Spiti Valley. We offer prayers at the famous shrine of Kunzum Devi to seek her blessings to travel through the rough terrain. Kunzum La offers a breath taking view of Bara-Sigri, the second longest glacier in the world, the Chandra-Bhaga Mountain and Spiti Valley.

6 kms from Kunzum La is the virgin and pristine Chandratal Lake, located at a height of 14,100 feet. We drive through the narrow, zigzag road to reach the campsite which is at least 3 kms from the lake. Post freshening up in our tent at the Moonlake campsite by the Chandra River, we continue our drive to the parking lot at Chandratal Lake. From here, the lake is a 15 minutes leisurely walk.

Chandratal Lake - Entrance

You can spot smaller water bodies on way to the lake. There is a small stupa covered with numerous prayer flags at the entrance. The changing colours of the lake water from blue to green based on reflection of the sun rays was astounding. Trailing half way around the edge of the lake, we are amazed by the pristine beauty of the place.

Chandratal Lake

All around the lake and also on our way back to the parking lot, we see plenty of stones stacked on top of each other. I later found out that these are wishing stones. The local belief is that if you make a pile with seven stones and wish for something with a pure heart, the Himalayan Gods will fulfil your wish.

Back at the campsite, we meet people who'd hiked up till the lake. So, we decide to revisit the Chandratal Lake early in the evening through the trek route. An hour long 2 kms hike through wild flowers and colourful stones adorning the slightly steep and somewhat plateaued route takes us to the Chandratal Lake. This crystal clear, sweet-water lake changes hues throughout the day reflecting colours of things around it. The sight of blue waters of the lake surrounded with the lush green grass and mighty mountains provide a mesmerizing, unforgettable view.

As evening sets in, the temperature drastically falls during our descent to the campsite. We drive towards our tent to rest up and immerse in our rendezvous with one of the most stunning places in Spiti. An early dinner with teeth chattering in the freezing weather was followed by sweet slumber snuggled in woollens and thick blankets.

Day 9: Chandratal Lake to Manali (130 kms | 07 hours)

Rohtang Pass

With fond memories of Chandratal Lake, we head towards Rohtang Pass and then to Manali. About 15 kms from the campsite, we stop for breakfast of freshly made parathas at the famous Chandra Dhaba a.k.a. Chacha-Chachi Dhaba at Batal. An aged couple – Dorje uncle and Chandra aunty own the derelict stone structure. With a satellite phone at hand, this rugged dhaba makes for a perfect stay in the absolute wilderness of Spiti.

After a quick halt at Chattru, we continue our journey through boulders and stones and barrenness of the cold desert and pagal nalas to reach Rohtang Pass. At a height of 3979 metres, Rohtang Pass is located on the highway to Keylong/Leh. This pass is a gateway to Lahaul Spiti, Pangi and Leh valley. Post a quick round of photo session at the Rohtang Pass, followed by a lunch break, we continue to Manali, which is still another 51 kms away.

Waiting to relish Himachali Thali at Vibes

An uphill drive through apple orchards on a meandering road for almost 7 kms of Kanyal Road, we reach Vivaan – The Sunrise Resort. Post a nice warm shower and a stroll down the Mall Road, we relish a healthy Himachali Thali for dinner at Vibes.

Day 10: Manali

Breakfast done, we check in to Hotel Thomas Villa. It was now time to explore places in and around Manali.

Our first stop is the Vashisht village located on outskirts of Manali across the River Beas. Here we visit the famous sulphurous hot water springs with healing powers, Vashisht temple and Ram temple build opposite Vashisht temple.

Ram Temple - Vashisht Village

From the beautiful Vashisht Village, we trek to the Jogini falls situated on its northern edge. From a height of around 150 feet, Jogini waterfall flows through several levels. Jogini Mata temple at the base of the waterfall is a holy site. The short, gentle trek of 3 kms to the fall was a pleasant one through narrow lanes, apple orchards, tall pine trees and small water streams.

Jogini waterfall

On the main road, we get off the car to get a closer view of the Beas River from its banks.

Next, we visit the Hidimbi Devi Temple built on a huge rock and the adjacent tree temple for her son Ghatothkach. Skeletal heads and animal horns hang from the outer walls of the temple and at the Gatothkach shrine. Famished from the trek and temple visits, we grab a quick bite at a local eating joint near the temple.

Manu Temple - Old Manali

An arduous 1.5 kms walk takes us to the Manu Temple, which is dedicated to sage Manu, who is believed to be the creator of the world and the writer of Manusmriti. The magnificent temple is one of the prime attractions in old Manali. It is supposed to be the place where sage Manu meditated after stepping on earth.

At Manali Chill Cafe 

As we walk down the dreamcatcher laced Manu Temple Road, a dainty bright café caught our attention. We thus settle for a nice hot chai cuppa & pakodas at Manali Chill Café.

Refreshed and charged for rest of the evening, we walk down to the Club House. Some shopping at Club House and the remaining at the Mall Road, we are fatigued to the core.

Post a quick dinner we head to Hotel Thomas Villa to pack our bags one last time on this trip…

10 days flew by so fast that we didn’t even realize it was time to head back home.

Day 11: Manali to Chandigarh (316 kms | 08 hours)

With memories to fill our heart and experiences to charge our soul, we leave early morning for Chandigarh to board flights back to Mumbai.

The enthralling Spiti Valley journey will forever have a special place in my heart.

On landing in the city of dreams, reality hit hard and how! 

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Ajay Kumar

P.S: A special thanks to driver Ajay Kumar for safely and skilfully manoeuvring through treacherous roads of the Spiti Valley and making our trip a great one...