Travel....| By Gio Evan

Try to travel, otherwise you may become racist and you may end up believing that your skin is the only one to be right, that your language is the most romantic and that you were the first to be the first.

Travel, because, if you don't travel then, your thoughts won’t be strengthened, won’t get filled with ideas. Your dreams will be born with fragile legs and then you end up believing in tv-shows, and, in those who invent enemies that fit perfectly with your nightmares, to make you live in terror.

Travel, because, travel teaches to say good morning to everyone regardless of which sun we come from.

Travel, because, travel teaches to say goodnight to everyone regardless of the darkness that we carry inside.

Travel, because traveling teaches to resist, not to depend, to accept others, not just for who they are but also for what they can never be. To know what we are capable of, to feel part of a family beyond borders, beyond traditions and culture. Traveling teaches us to be beyond.

Travel, otherwise you end up believing

that you are made only for a panorama and instead, inside you there are wonderful landscapes still to visit.

By,

Gio Evan, 

Poet and Songwriter 

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 08

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 07

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 06

Discovering Kotagiri And Exploring Ooty & Coonoor

A lesser known cousin of Ooty and Coonoor, Kotagiri is situated at a towering elevation of 1793 metres above sea level. This relatively small and unexplored hill station in the Nilgiris with scenic trek trails, has a beautiful ambience and positive aura. The name Kotagiri translates to “mountain of the Kotas”. The Kotas are a shy, reluctant and steadily dwindling artisans’ tribe who have been living in Kotagiri for centuries.

Kotagiri is first location in the Nilgiris, which was discovered and converted into a settlement by the British Government. The colonial influence is distinctly visible in the architecture of its buildings and churches. You are almost transported to the Victorian era as you walk through the streets of this quaint town. It was from here that Ralph Thomas Hotchkin Griffith, the son of a Christian missionary, set about to translate the Vedas into English.

Reaching Kotagiri

Coimbatore International Airport is the closest airport to Kotagiri. Board a flight to Coimbatore and then either take the Kotagiri Ghat route or travel to Coonoor from Coimbatore and then divert from there to Kotagiri. Kotagiri is at a distance of approximately 75 kms from Coimbatore Airport. I hopped into a cab from airport that took me through Mettupalayam and Aravenu to reach the scenic Kotagiri.

Travelling by road is one of the best options to reach Kotagiri. The place is approximately 29 km from Ooty and 19 km from Coonoor. The Kotagiri Ghat route, which is the oldest known route to the Nilgiris from the plains, is the best way to get around.

Accommodation

There are sufficient accommodation choices available in Kotagiri. Browse through MakeMyTrip.com or Booking.com to find an accommodation that suits your mood and budgets. Homestays, Guest houses, Luxurious resorts, Kotagiri has something for everyone.  

I checked in to Nahar Retreat and Spa, which is centrally located yet in the lap of nature offering peace and solitude. The property is well maintained with a vast lawn and clean rooms. The vegetarian fare is palatable. The management however is stickler for timings and rigid when it comes to serving before or after the fixed times. It isn’t something preferred by those who prefer to holiday at their own pace. For me the lawn was the highlight where I spent good time soaking in the view of the valley, natural beauty of lush green forests, aromatic tea plantations and misty mountain peaks.

Exploring Kotagiri

Kotagiri is endowed with lush green flora and fauna accentuated with a grey blue skyline that makes the floral colour pops stand out in the Nilgiris. Located in the heart of emerald hills enveloped in shola forests, Kotagiri is much more peaceful, quieter and more beautiful than other popular hill stations in the region. Plush with tea estates and surrounded by the never-ending mountain ranges, Kotagiri is a fine example of heaven with its eternally scenic landscape sprinkled with Victorian architecture.

I hired a local cab to take me around the place. The driver, Selvan doubled up as a guide and photographer as I set about to explore the gems of Kotagiri, Ooty & Coonoor; one place at a time over two days…. Tamil & Hindi music in the car, made my experience even more entertaining!

Passing through Kota temple and massive tea estates owned by Jaya Lalita, I set about to explore the first destination for the day. 

Kodanad View Point: At an altitude of about 1793 m above sea level, Kotagiri is blessed with ample viewpoints. The Kodanad View Point is one such famous place that mesmerized all its visitors with beautiful sceneries of the Nilgiri ranges. You get a panoramic view of the Catherine Falls, the Rangaswamy Peak, the Dolphin's Nose, the Moyar River and the Bhavanisagar Dam all interspersed with the lush green landscape of the tea estates.

Catherine Falls: Located at Aravenu, which is at a distance of 8 km from Kotagiri on the Mettupalayam Road, this double cascading waterfall was named after the wife of M. D. Cockburn. The couple was among the first settlers in Kotagiri and also responsible for initiating the cultivation of coffee here. Dropping from an elevation of 250 ft, Catherine Waterfall is the second highest in the entire Nilgiris. The falls come down to further join the Kallar River and is fondly called Geddhehaada Halla, which in translation means "foothills of the Dale River". This scenic and fun trek trail to Catherine Falls is through tea gardens and descending mud road scattered with pebbles. Enroute, you meet local villagers, weirdly colored domestic cats and cattle and birds. 

John Sullivan Memorial: John Sullivan Memorial is located at Kannerimukku, 2 kilometres from the centre of the Kotagiri town. John Sullivan was the first English civil servant to settle in Ooty and the reason why the Nilgiris are the way they are today. The Memorial was constructed on what was once his residence. Known as the Pethakal Bungalow, it now houses the Nilgiris Documentation Centre as well as serves as the Nilgiris Museum. Caretaker Gayathri was more than happy to take me around the place. The memorial also has on sale products made by local tribes and artisans to support and encourage rural livelihood.

Longwood Shola Reserve Forest: I couldn’t explore the Longwood Shola trail as it was shut by the time we reached. Spread across 116 hectares, the place has a dense, thick cover of evergreen forests and is home to a variety of animals such as the flying fox, Indian bison and others. The reserve forest is the only remaining natural shola forest of the region.

Elk Falls: While this is one of the touristy destinations of Kotagiri, the hotel manager and Selvan both advised against visiting the place. They said the waterfall didn’t have enough water and wouldn’t do justice to its real splendour that must be witnessed. Located at a distance of 7 kms from Kotagiri, the Elk Falls is an ideal gateway to experience lush greenery and cascading waterfalls at one stop. The best time to visit the place is during the monsoon when the waterfall transforms itself into a cascading beauty.

Ooty: The Queen of Nilgiris has a scenic and colorful skyline. At a distance of approx. 29 kms from Kotagiri, Ooty is a popular destination, which can be explored in half a day.

I couldn’t visit the Doddabetta peak as the road was closed for repairs. Located at an altitude of 2623 meters, Doddabetta Peak is the highest peak in the Nilgiris. Covered by dense sholas, this peak is a trekker’s paradise. The view from the top of the peak is absolutely mesmerising with a captivating view of the valley around. 

Homewood’s Tea & Chocolate Factory was open to visitors but not operational due to it being a weekly off day. In Ooty, I visited Botanical Gardens, Rose Gardens, St. Stephen’s Church and the Ooty Lake / Boat Club. 

Spread over 55 acres of land, Botanical Gardens is one of the most popular places to see in Ooty. The Fossil Tree Trunk that is said to be around 20 million years old, is a unique attraction at the Botanical Garden. The garden is divided into five different sections such as Fern House, Lower Garden, Italian Garden, Conservatory and Nurseries.

The 19th century St. Stephen’s Church is a must visit for its architectural beauty and religious importance. The simple exteriors of the church accentuate the stained glass paintings inside. Folklore has it that the timber used in the construction of this church was brought from Srinangapatna as well as from the Tipu Sultan’s Palace.

Ooty Lake is an artificial lake that was built for fishing purposes. The Boat Club near the lake is popular for boating. Tourists can enjoy a refreshing ride on its serene waters.

Coonoor: From the Queen of Nilgiris (Ooty), I moved on to explore the second largest hill station in the wonderful Nilgiri Hills. At an altitude of 1930 meters, Coonoor is just 19 kms from Ooty. To reach Dolphin’s Nose, I drove through the picturesque Wellington Cantonment and its Golf Courses.

Along the way, I passed through Sim’s Park, which is a park-cum-botanical garden with beautiful terraces and colourful flowers, lawns and rockeries. Botanists from all across the globe are enthralled by this park that has a wonderful treasure trove of some exquisite plant species in the world.

The route to Dolphin’s Nose, which is about 1,500 meters above sea level, is through thick, dense canopies of shola and eucalyptus trees. The dense jungle is peppered with lush green tea gardens and sharp hairpin turns and beautiful mountain peaks. On a rainy day, the drive was proving to be all mesmerizing and dreamy as I kept spotting Victorian houses in midst of tea gardens on this scenic route. The playlist only added to the experience.

Dolphin’s Nose: The gigantic and unprecedented rock formation of Dolphin’s Nose is set in midst of the Blue Mountains (Nilgiris) with enormous canyons on both sides. Visit the Dolphin’s Nose viewpoint to enjoy an unobstructed, panoramic view of Catherine waterfall, Nilgiris Hills, quaint villages and clouds rolling in over the mountain valleys…. Catch a sunrise or a sunset here as you outline the shapes of Lamb’s Rock, Tiger Hills and Sleeping Lady. The experience and the view is breathtakingly beautiful.

The yet unblemished and non-commercialized Kotagiri left me in awe. Evenings for me was about savouring my “Me-Time” in the green lawns of Nahar Retreat and Spa with some piping hot masala chai. 

Watching the grey and white clouds sail to embrace the lush green mountains feels so peaceful. It was soothing to hear the sound of birds chirping, crickets and toads calling and the church bells ringing at sunset that made the rainy evenings that turned nippier. 

Filling my lungs with the unpolluted, earthy fragrance of the grass and foliage and trees and I returned home from my Kotagiri, Ooty & Coonoor trip with memories of a place, which can inspire writers and poets with its rich green manicured hills and the colonial culture.

Roaming in Rishikesh

From one heavenly place to another, we traversed almost 20 kms from the land of mythologies (Haridwar) to the land of spirituality and adrenaline rush (Rishikesh).

Situated at the foothills of the Himalayas along the convergence of Ganga and Chandrabhaga rivers, Rishikesh is the centre of many ancient temples, popular cafes, yoga ashrams and adventure sports. A geographical magnet to spiritual seekers, this ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ attracts crowd from across the globe. The ‘Gateway to Garhwal Himalayas’ beautifully blends spiritual and adrenaline pumping experiences.

We opted to stay at the lively Moustache Hostel at Tapovan in Rishikesh. Meeting up and interacting with people of different ethnicity and knowing their travel experiences was an interesting way to spend our evening. Concluding an exciting day at Haridwar, we decided to take it easy and chill at the hostel’s common area near the rooftop amidst food, conversations and music that kept us warm on a cold, rainy evening. You can opt to say in hostels, ashrams, hotels or motels depending on your mood and budget.

On a hired two wheeler, we zoomed along the below trail to experience the serenity of Rishikesh over a day and a half –

Rishikesh > Ram Jhula > Lakshman Jhula > Neelkanth Mahadev Temple > Trayambakeshwar Mandir > Patna Falls > Beatles Ashram > VanaAshram > Parmarth Ashram > Ganga Aarati at Triveni Ghat > Dinner at Aitareya Restaurant > White Water Rafting and Cliff Diving > Lunch at Chotiwala’s > Visit to The Divine Life Society (Sivananda) Ashram > Head to Ram Nagar | Jim Corbett

Ram Jhula & Lakshman Jhula: Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula are among the popular attractions of Rishikesh. As you walk on the bridges surrounded by beautiful Himalayas, river Ganga powerfully gushes below. Both the bridges are quite similar in design and construction. Ram Jhula is placed a few miles downstream from Lakshman Jhula and links Swarg Ashram on the western bank of River Ganga to the Sivananda Ashram on the eastern one.

Neelkanth Mahadev Temple: Located 32 kms from Rishikesh, at an altitude of 1330 meters above sea level, Neelkanth Mahadev temple is surrounded by breath-taking views. The temple is situated adjacent to Nar-Narayan mountain range. Brahmakoot, Manikoot and Vishnukoot are the three valleys that surround the temple, which is also the meeting point of Rivers Madhumati and Pankaja. The temple has a colourful and attractive architecture that is sculpted with the event of Samudra Manthan. Mythology states that Neelkanth Mahadev temple has been built on that sacred point where Lord Shiva had consumed poison generated through Samudra Manthan.

Trayambakeshwar Temple: Located near Laxman Jhula, Trayambakeshwar is a 13-storied shrine with different Hindu deities inside. There are many sections in the temple, which comprise of Vedic and religious works.

Beatles Ashram: Rishikesh has a certain kind of appeal that made the Beatles undertake several trips to this beautiful city. Many of their songs were formulated and created here. The Beatles Ashram also known as Chaurasi Kutia, has a lot of memoirs and paintings that shed light on the Beatles’ time in India and their interaction with the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. For any Beatles fan, this dilapidated and overrun by jungle site, is a must visit. We were intrigued by the interesting graffiti and paintings on the now abandoned ashram walls. The small café in the ashram complex serves good chai and basic snacks.

Parmarth Ashram: The majestic Shiva statue at Parmarth Ghat left us amazed with its peaceful simplicity. Here, on the edge of the river, you can witness the spectacular daily evening aarti with a vibrant blend of music and singing. After drumming and bell ringing, pilgrims light small diyas and place them onto the water. The flickering lights floating through the water into the night sky is a truly mystical sight.

Parmarth Niketan on the banks of Ganga, located in the small community of Swarg Ashram on the eastern bank of the river, is the foremost yoga centre in the city. If you wish to stay here, it is worth booking in advance to ensure that there is space. The garden and other facilities are available to be used by all.

Triveni Ghat: The confluence of the Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati is the main ghat for taking a holy dip. The otherworldly aura of Triveni Ghat took us to a different world during the rhythmic evening aarti that was performed by the young pandas. It’s an astounding view to see the drifting lights in the waterway post the aarati is concluded. There are also bhajans (hymns / devotional songs) being sung live where the devotees who are in a trance like state dance in surrender to the almighty.

The ancient Rishi Kund and Raghunath Temple nearby are also worth a visit.

Adventure Trail: In the last few years, Rishikesh has emerged as the hub of Adventure Sports in India for multitude options including White Water Rafting, Bungee Jumping, Flying Fox, Mountain Biking, etc. Rishikesh is popular with adrenaline junkies who are lured by the white rapids of the mighty Ganga. White water rafting is very popular and you can choose the grade based on your age and appetite for adventure.

We opted for the 16 kms (9 rapids) white water rafting and the cliff dive. It was exciting to raft through and cliff jump into the cold and fast flowing pristine waters of the Ganga. For a first timer and a non-swimmer like me, it’s an experience I’ll cherish and remember for life.

You don’t need to pre-book your rafting slots. There are several local tour agencies who can register your slot. Alternatively, ask your hotel / hostel to book it for you. The rates are standard across.

Café Hopping: In the recent past, there has been a surge in the number of cafes and restaurants in the town. There are a lot of cafes serving English and American food and beverages. Go café hopping around Lakshman Jhula, where several cafes serve some really delicious food.

Some of the cafes that you can visit are Little Buddha Café, Cafe Delmar/Beatles Café, Chatsang Café, Devraj Coffee Corner, Revive Café, La-So-Va Fresh Kitchen, Bistro Nirvana, Olivia, Swiss Garden, Pyramid Café, Ganga Beach Café, and Madras Café. Keep exploring and you may find more hidden gems that appeal to your taste buds.

Food Trail: Ask for the local Gharwali cuisine when visiting a local joint. We had dinner at Aitareya Restaurant in Tapovan. The freshly cooked, healthy and hygienic food was deliciously fulfilling. Don’t forget to have a meal at the famous Chotiwala’s Restaurant near Ram Jhula. It is an age old family run business that serves a visit for its excellent food and the dressed up Chotiwala pandit who sits outside the restaurant at all times.

Yoga Trail: Yoga has been part of the culture in Rishikesh for centuries. Ever since the Beatles visited the ashram of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in the late '60s, the place has been attracting many to its ashrams for all kinds of yoga and meditation classes. There are many practitioners who are willing to teach you this exercise in Rishikesh. The buzz is mostly north of the main town, where one can peacefully focus on meditation and mind expansion in midst of the forested hills through which the Ganges flows. Parmarth Niketan, Anand Prakash and Rishikesh Yogpeeth are some of the famous centres for yoga.

Shopping: Visit the market near Triveni Ghat if you wish to purchase valuable stones. The bazaars of Rishikesh are a shopper’s delight. Explore the place to pick arts and artifacts for your home or to give away as mementos.

Rishikesh is a must visit for everyone to experience something truly new!!!

Hari ke Dwar – Haridwar

No pilgrimage or spiritual journey in India is complete without a trip to Haridwar; the land of mythologies at the foothills of Himalayas. Located on the banks of the Ganges, Haridwar is considered as the holiest place to wash away sins. For those looking at a weekend break, Haridwar is a comforting haven that holds the confidence of spiritual pursuers from across the world.

We reached Dehradun airport by evening and hired a cab to Haridwar, which is approx. 40 kms away. The weather was pleasant and was getting cooler by the time we reached our hotel Hotel Le Roi, Haridwar @ Har Ki Pauri Road, which is strategically located next to Haridwar station.

Getting around the place is easy with different types of rickshaws (cycle rickshaw, e-rickshaw, regular rickshaw) available at reasonable rates. You also have the option to hire a cab for the day to take you around. The cab option may turn out to be economical as well as a time saver if you want to explore maximum places in a day if you are a first time visitor like us. You can also leisurely walk around the place if you are up to it.

We experienced and explored the holy city of Haridwar by following the below trail over a day and half…

Haridwar > GhantaGhar > Har ki Pauri > Ganga Mata Temple and Mahadev-Parvati temple at Har ki Pauri > Morning aarti at Har ki Pauri > Shitala Mata Mandir > Daksheshwar Mahadev Mandir > Mata Anandmayi Ashram > Chandi Devi temple > Vaishno Devi Mandir > Bharat Mata Mandir > Mansa Devi Mandir > Evening aarti at Har ki Pauri > Head to Rishikesh

As we begin our journey, frantic locals and relaxed pilgrims head to their respective destinations as chimes of temple bells and faint chanting of the priests echo through the ambiguous lanes and alleys.... 

Har ki Pauri: Literally meaning the ‘footstep of God’, is a holy bank on the river Ganga. The place is brimming with people wanting to take a dip in the sacred waters. Every morning at the wake of dawn and every evening at sundown as dusk sets in, Ganga aarti is performed at the ghat, with bells ringing and flaming torches. Har ki Pauri has become my favourite place in Haridwar. I thoroughly enjoyed peacefully sitting by the ghat and soaking in the good vibes around me.

Ganga Aarti at Har ki Pauri: The Ganga aarti organized every evening near GhantaGhar at Har Ki Pauri is a mesmerizing experience that must not be missed by anyone. Be sure to reach an hour to two early to catch your seat at a vantage point, which will allow you to have a good view of the proceedings.

The peace in your soul is palpable as you experience the Ganga Aarti at Har ki Pauri. You are transported into a different world as the bells ring, the chants are recited, and the hymns are sung by the priests when performing the pooja.

Float A Wish: Post the aarti, you may want to float a wish in the Ganges by offering flowers, diya and incense sticks neatly placed in leaves. These are easily available along the ghat. Don’t forget to come back to Haridwar to thank Ganga Maiyya when your wish comes true.

Take a dip in holy waters: It would be a sin to come to Haridwar and not take a dip in Bramhakund at Har ki Pauri. Being a part of hordes of devotees who take a dip in the freezing waters of the mighty Ganga is an experience in itself, especially early in the morning. It surely tops the list of things to do in Haridwar. Take a holy dip or soak your feet, but be sure to cleanse your sins here

Temple Hopping: The ancient temples and ashrams in the primordial city of Haridwar see thousands of devotees around the year.

(L-R) Temple view at Har ki Pauri, Ganga Mata Temple & Mahadev-Parvati temple at Har ki Pauri and Shri Daksheshwara Mahadev temple

• Visit the Ganga Mata Temple and Mahadev-Parvati temple at Har ki Pauri when you are there to take the holy dip or participate in the aarti.
• The Shitala Mata temple on the riverbank, Shri Daksheshwara Mahadev temple, the Chandi Devi temple on Neel Parvat are some of the other important temples.
• The Mansa Devi temple atop the Bilwa Parvat is very popular as she is considered to be the wish-fulfilling goddess. You can either walk up the hill or take the cable car.
• Maya Devi temple, Vaishno Devi temple and Bharat Mata temple are some of the popular ones.
• Mansa Devi Temple, Chandi Devi Temple and Maya Devi Temple completes the trio of popular siddhpeeth in Haridwar.

Food Trail: Haridwar is renowned for its street food. The kulhad chai / lassi / coffee is a must have. The aloo puri at Mohanji Puriwale and the kachoris at Kashyap Kachoriwala are to die for. Try the sweets at Mathura Walon Ki Prachin Dukaan.

Local Shopping: Don’t forget to carry the Gangajal back home. It’s the most pure here. There are shops around the ghat that sell gallons and bottles in varying size for you to have your fill directly from the river.

Shopping is really not one of the prime attractions in Haridwar due to the city’s religious roots. However, if you wish to explore, there are Moti Bazar, Jwalapur, Bara Bazar and Kankhal. These are scattered across the city selling mostly handicrafts, religious curios, and ayurvedic medicines.

Harr Harr Gange! Namami Gange!

The Herb Farm - Igatpuri

Wanting to get away from the hustle bustle of the city, we were scouting for a scenic, easily accessible place to chill over the weekend. That’s how we discovered The Herb Farm, which is situated near the Darna river lake in Mundhegaon, along the Mumbai- Nasik highway. 

Situated along a small village enveloped by dense forest, The Herb Farm has eight raised cottages that are built on pillars. Each cottage is named after an herb, to reflect the green and beige colored theme of this premium resort. 

As you climb the stairs to enter the cottage, you are welcomed by 

a nice spacious balcony with comfortable seating for two.

The compact rooms are neat, clean, self-contained and well maintained.

The glass roofed bathroom is spacious and well stocked with toiletries.

The property offers a host of outdoor activities that one can choose from. It has a small swimming pool, cycles, badminton rackets, and a few other indoor games. Each cottage has a hammock tied to the pillars. 

There’s a small garden patch lined with canopies and wooden benches 

for those wanting to just chill away in cool hours. 

There are also a few resting decks lined with recliner chairs, 

which face the water bodies.

Just sit back, relax and soak in the scenic view…

The pathway from the cottages to the restaurant is nicely pebbled and lined with colourful flora and fauna that only enhance the charm of the place. 

The restaurant serves some delicious vegetarian fare. The staff is well mannered and helpful. For breakfast, it’s a good idea to check with the kitchen chef what’s on menu and order that. The vegetables and fruits are freshly picked from the farm. If you are lucky, you may get to pick some fresh veggies of the season. Also, when checking out, if the owner is around, he may give the farm fresh produce to you (subject to availability).

During our stay, we were blessed to experience the presence of a few Jain monks who had made a pit stop there for the night before moving on to their next destination. The staff ensured they followed the ritualistic Do’s & Don’t’s when taking care of the monks. Truly impressed by the same.

Things to do around:

• Explore the vineyards – Sula, York, Vallonne
• Relish a meal at Malaka Spice at Vallonne Vineyards
• Walk along the Vaitarna Lake / Dam
• Visit Dhamma Giri, the Vipassana International Academy at Igatpuri

We would love to experience the place in different seasons. The Herb Farm is an ideal destination for monsoons and winters. In summers, the heat could get unbearable and not allow you to experience the place as it’s meant to be. Enjoy the sound of the rain and the blanket of lush greenery in monsoons. Warm up to the winter bonfire as conversations flow freely over music and drinks.

The tropical beauty of its natural surroundings, makes The Herb Farm a pleasant mainstay destination for a weekend stay.

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 05

Marveling Majestic Mamallapuram (a.k.a Mahabalipuram)

It’s been a while since I have last travelled. So, when I got an opportunity where I could set off to explore a UNESCO World Heritage site of Mamallapuram (a.k.a Mahabalipuram), there was no way I was letting it pass (even if it meant visiting the place during the hot and humid off-season time). The historic town is located approximately 60 kms from Chennai on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal and is resplendent with 6^th to 8^th century heritage and stories of the lore.

Babu, my driver for the day, arrives by 7.45 a.m. in Toyota Etios. We leave from T. Nagar in Chennai around 8:00 a.m. to explore Mahabalipuram via the Eastern Coastal Road (ECR). Aim is to peacefully pack in as much punch as I possibly can in a day’s time.

As we leave Chennai behind, we pass through the striking VGP Golden Beach Resort. Babu tells me that this is one of the largest and premium resorts around and worth exploring if one has the time.

A little further down, about 30 kms from Chennai city, is the MGM Dizzee World. Designed by Italian architects on a huge lush green area against the scenic blue beach front of the ECR, at Muttukadu, MGM Dizzee World is one of the largest theme parks in the country. If you are travelling with kids or enjoy adventure rides, I’d highly recommend reserving an extra day to visit this amusement park. Since am running short on time, I breeze through the park making a mental note to visit it whenever am around next.

Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa

My first half for the day is at a distance of little over 30 kms from Chennai at Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa. I’d heard such good reviews of the place that I was eagerly looking forward to visit it. On reaching this Taj Vivanta property along Covelong (Kovalam) Beach, I was blown away by its scenic location, understated simplicity, warmth of the staff and the amazing food spread. Beach, Birds, Books, Coconut Water, Beer / Wine or even better the deliciously aromatic Filter Kaapi served here totally sorts you out.

By the Covelong (Kovalam) Beach

I hogged on the healthy, tasty and freshly cooked breakfast buffet at their all-day diner – Seagull. The Filter Kaapi (Coffee) served here is one the best I’ve ever had. The taste lingers and the memory of the brew is still as fresh! The kitchen curates specials menu for calorie-conscious fitness enthusiasts as well as young guests. The experience is absolute value for money (VFM) all the way!

If budget permits, it's a must visit – must stay property. You can enjoy the sand, the surf and the sea breeze with lush gardens and swinging palms. Stretch or lounge around on the deck chairs across the property or explore the refreshingly breezy open spaces. The premium sea facing villas open right on to the pristine beach. It's like having your own private access to a serene, virgin beach. There’s a wealth of character and experiences that’ll keep you captivated in the charisma of this seaside paradise as you gaze out at the Bay of Bengal. Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa is the place to be if you are seeking some peace and rejuvenation in the lap of luxury close to nature. Very modern. Very in.

Madras Crocodile Bank and Centre for Herpetology

Entrance - Madras Crocodile Bank

Satiated and fulfilled with the scrumptious breakfast buffet, my next stop is the Crocodile Park. The Croc Bank was formed in 1976 to promote the conservation of reptiles and amphibians and their habitats through education, scientific research and captive breeding. Today Croc Bank is home to 17 species of crocodilians, three of which are listed by the IUCN as critically endangered with a further three listed as threatened. Adults and kids will enjoy visiting the park. There is also a snake show where the staff / volunteer explain snake behaviour while having a Python coiled around his shoulder. I was done exploring the place with a half an hour normal paced walk through tour of the enclosures and cages.

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From Crocodile Park, I move on to discovering the historical monuments and sites in Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram). Starting from Panch Rathas, moving on to the Mahishamardini Rock Cut Cave temple, Light House, Shore Temple, Arjuna's Penance and concluding with Krishna's Butterball. Babu has been a kind and patient guide. I buy an entry ticket worth Rs. 40/-, which is valid across few other places I would be visiting during the day.

To better understand the story and significance of the places I’d be visiting, I availed services of a government approved guide. For a reasonable cost of Rs. 500/- for approx. three hours, I had guide Lakshmanji take me around the ancient city.

The Panch Rathas

Standing majestically on the southernmost extreme of Mahabalipuram are The Panch Rathas rock marvels. Constructed from multiple materials, these monolithic structures or the ‘Rathas’ are cut in the form of chariots and have bas-relief sculptures carved on it.

The Panch Ratha Complex

Standing below a tree shade, Lakshmanji explains that though these temples are named after the legendary Pandavas; Yudhistara, Arjuna, Bhima, Nakula & Sahadeva and their wife Draupadi, they are not related to Mahabharata. The Panch Rathas were built as models of South Indian temples by Pallava ruler Narsimha Varman 1 (AD 630- 68) around the 7^th century. They are not used for worship as they are not consecrated. 

There are in all eight structures in the complex – 5 chariot temples and 3 animals (Lion – Vehicle of Devi Durga, Nandi Bull – Vehicle of Lord Shiva and Elephant – Vehicle of Lord Indra). Most of these structures are incomplete yet enchanting in their own distinct way.

Draupadi Ratha

• Draupadi Ratha: The Draupadi Ratha is the smallest of Panch Rathas. This shrine with amazing artwork is shaped like a thatched hut, with a square roof. The fine carved panel shows Devi Durga on a lotus pedestal.
• Dharmaraja Ratha (Yudhisthir’s Ratha): Shaped like a characteristic vimana (tower above the shrine), the three storeyed Dharmaraja Ratha is the most magnificent and tallest of the five structures. The shrine is devoted to Lord Shiva and is adorned with one of the best examples of early Pallava art. The pillars are adorned with beautifully carved statues of deities such Ardhanarishvara (half Parvati, half Shiva), Harihara (half Vishnu, half Shiva), Brahma, Skanda, Bhairava and other forms of Shiva.
• Bhima Ratha: Built in Gopura style with gabled roof, Bhima Ratha is the massive of the Five Rathas. The unfinished yet fascinating building is said to be devoted to Anantshayi Vishnu. The sanctuary has a circumambulatory passage around it. Pillars of the shrine are adorned with figures of lions.

  

  (Nandi) Bull's Eye View of Arjuna Ratha

• Arjuna Ratha: The Arjuna Ratha is devoted to Lord Shiva. Shaped like a small wooden shrine, it is an impressive building with a distinctive southern Indian style. The facade is adorned with magnificent sculptures, showing gods and humans.
• Nakula Sahadeva Ratha: This shrine is devoted to Lord Indra and is associated with elephants. This ratha is the only one which is not placed in a "procession”. The roof of this shrine is also shaped like a back of elephant.

Lakshmanji let me in on an interesting trivia about the two names of the place. As the legend goes, Mamallapuram was earlier knows as Mahabalipuram because the demon king Mahabali was killed by Lord Vishnu here. The name was changed later by the king of Pallava Narashima Varman who has got the title of Mamalla; the great wrestler. Mamallapuram means the land of wrestlers.

Having explored The Panch Rathas, we get into the car and head towards our next destination for the day. Climbing up a flight of high stairs in the humid and scorchingly hot weather, we reach the Mahishamardini Rock Cut Mandapam. The Light House stands a few meters away from it.

Mahishamardini Rock Cut Mandapam

The Mahishamardini Mandapam is one of the 14 cave temples and other splendid architectures. The temple is named after one of the carved depictions that show eight-armed Goddess Durga defeating the demon-king Mahishasura. This unfinished temple lies at the base of a hillock, along with Olakneswara Temple that is built on its top. The Mandapa has three shrines connected to a central hall.

Lakshmanji explains the three shrines at the Mandapa.

Mahishasuramardini Rock Panel

The central shrine is a large rock relief of Somaskanda, with Lord Shiva seated in a Sukhasana (cross-legged) yoga posture and Goddess Parvati next to him with the infant Skanda. Behind them are a standing Brahma, Vishnu and Surya.

On the northern wall of the temple hall is one of the most intricately sculpted rock panel of Mahishasuramardini legend. While the army of 7 demons accompany Mahishasura, the Goddess has 8 ganas. 

Anantasayi Vishnu Rock Panel

Lakshmanji quizzed me if I could figure out who’s winning on the panel. I replied that I am aware that the Goddess wins. So he goes on to explain that if you closely at the panel, the Goddess is marching forward and has more ganas than the demon Mahisasura who’s retracting and also has lesser soldiers in his army.

On the southern wall of the hall is a carving of the Anantasayi, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu reclining on five-headed king of snakes, known as Ananta Shesha. Just below it is the sculpture of Bhu Devi (Mother Earth).

Lighthouse

Having paid obeisance at the Mahisamardini Mandapa, I walk up to the (new) Lighthouse that stands a few meters away. Lakshmanji guides on the way but decides to wait near the Mahishamardini Mandapam while I make my way towards the new lighthouse. At an entry fee of Rs. 10/-, I climb up the steep 75 to 80 steps at the circular masonry lighthouse made of natural stone. The narrow spiral staircase allows only one person at a time to climb up or down and one needs to be careful lest the foot slips. In the highly humid climate, the lighthouse was a soothing, cool place to be. The view from the top is magnificent and serene.

View from the New Lighthouse

From the new lighthouse I could also view one of the oldest lighthouse in India, built around 640 A.D. by King Mahendra Pallava. The Olakkanesvara temple is perched on the rock above the Mahishamardini cave temple is also known as the Old Lighthouse because of its conversion by British officials. Its name is modern, based on the "ollock of oil" per day, which was burnt by local residents to keep the temple flame lit.

The Shore Temple

Babu, Lakshmanji & I have refreshing coconut water to stay hydrated in the unbearable afternoon sun. Undeterred by the sultry weather, we head to The Shore Temple, which is almost 10 minutes away from the Lighthouse. Erected on a 50 feet square platform, the Shore Temple is a 60 feet high pyramidal structure reflecting the characteristics of Dravidian temple architecture. It is one of the oldest structural stone temples of southern India devoted to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu.

The Shore Temple

Lakshmanji takes me through the temple, which has intricately sculptured interiors and exteriors in an incredibly real and artistic style. Magnificent relics of Nandi bull beautify the temple’s compound wall. Shore Temple is no more a temple worshipped. The temple basks in the glow of the first rays of the rising sun and spotlights the waters after sunset.

The temple complex also houses the remnants of a docking port for ships with warehouse adjacent to it and also a wrestling arena. It’s amazing how well planned the cities were even in the 6^th century. Having marvelled at the Shore Temple, it’s time to move to the remaining two cave monuments for the day with Babu and Lakshmanji.

Arjuna's Penance

We reach Arjuna’s Penance, which is one of the magnificent air relief of Mahabalipuram that dates back to the mid-7^th century. This 43 feet tall monolith is carved on two huge adjoining boulders. The subject of the majestic structure is either Arjuna's Penance or the Descent of the Ganges, or possibly both.

Lakshmanji explained both these stories referencing the monolith representation. ‘Arjuna's Penance’ is an extract from the Mahabharata, of how Arjuna performed severe austerities in order to obtain Shiva's weapon. The ‘Descent of Ganges’ story narrates the penance of Bhagirathi who performed austerities in order to bring Goddess Ganges down to earth. Lord Shiva consented to break the force of the descent of the river with his hair.

Arjuna's Penance

The composition of the relief includes scenes of the natural and celestial worlds. A natural cleft populated by Nagas (snakes) separates the two halves of the relief. Water pours down this fissure imitating a waterfall or the Ganges' descent. Just above the shrine, Arjuna or Bhagiratha is carved standing on one leg, his arms upraised, in a yoga posture. Behind him appears Lord Shiva, holding a weapon and attended by celestial beings. In the natural world life-sized elephants are shown protect their young. There are also numerous other animals. The entire presentation is a visual treat and is done with utmost skill.

Krishna's Butterball

Less than 5 minutes from Arjuna’s Penance is Krishna’s Butterball. This gigantic boulder rests on a slope, and is said to have been at the same place for 1200 years. How it has managed to stay in the same place on such a small base, remains an unsolved mystery.

With Lakshmanji near Krishna's Butterball

With all the key monuments covered, it’s time to bid adieu to Lakshmanji who peacefully took me around Mahabalipuram a.k.a Mamallapuram explaining the stories and legends for each and also doubling up as my photographer for the day. As a parting note, Lakshmanji asks me to check out YouTube where he’s seen alongside actor Aamir Khan when he visited Mahabalipuram. Lo behold! A celebrity guide took me around the place. Check out Lakshmanji’s videos with Aamir Khan here – Lakshmanji 01 and Lakshmanji 02.

I enjoy a nice cool glass of lemon soda that is locally available outside all tourist places. It’s a refreshing and welcome way to beat the August heat in Tamil Nadu. Besides staying hydrated, ensure you have applied enough sunblock and are carrying your sunglasses when exploring Mamallapuram during the day. And yes, a cap or any other comfortable head gear would be great to have as well!

Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir

Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir

As I drove along the ECR, my next stop was at Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir. It was a soothing feeling to experience the peace and calm at this pristine white Derasarji. Short outfits aren’t allowed inside the temple. Therefore, one can borrow a wraparound lungi / dhoti from the temple office, if you have unexpectedly landed up there just like I did.

DakshinaChitra

My next and last stop for the day is DakshinaChitra, which is a cross cultural living museum of art, architecture, lifestyle, craft and performing arts of southern India. The museum is located at Muttukadu, 25 kms south of Central Chennai, along the ECR to Mamallapuram.

DakshinaChitra has a collection of 18 authentic historical houses with contextual exhibitions in each house. All the houses bought and reconstructed at DakshinaChitra had been given for demolition by their owners. The authentic homes in a regional style are purchased, taken down, transported and reconstructed by artisans (Stapathis) of the regions where the houses belong. There are also various workshops and live performances that one can participate in. This was a perfect end to a great day!

With wonderful memories from Mamallapuram, I commence my journey back to Chennai already thinking where I would travel next.