A Wanderer's Bookmark - 03

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 02

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 01

A Weekend in Quaint Kasauli

Almost mid-way between Chandigarh and Shimla, Kasauli is a hilly cantonment town in Solan district and to the south-west of Himachal Pradesh. Surrounded by beautiful forests of oak, pine and cedar trees, Kasauli is a little hidden gem in the Shivalik hills. Victorian structures from the British era speak volumes of the glorious past of this hill station. They augment the mystical and serene ambience of the place. Pictures cannot do justice to reflect the peacefulness this place offers. Bags packed, I travel from 30℃ in Mumbai to soothe my nerves in 5℃ of quaint Kasauli.  

Reaching Kasauli

With proper planning, those residing in West / South / East zones of India can experience the serene environment and enchanting calmness of Kasauli, that too within budget. 

There are no fixed trains from other major cities to Kasauli. You can get on to an express train like Shatabdi Express, get off at Kalka (26 kms away) and drive down to Kasauli. Other train stations from where you can cab it to Kasauli are Sonwara (4 kms away) and Koti (6 kms away).

I flew in to Chandigarh around 11:45 a.m. Two hours of pleasant cab drive (approx. 60 kms) through woody forests and misty mountain air on a clear day and I was at Kasauli.

On way, at Dharampur I passed by the famous Giani da Dhaba, which is one of the oldest dhabas on the Shimla-Kalka Highway. It is now relocated a little away from its original place. 

Further ahead, situated at a height of 1750 metres and spread over an area of 139 acres, is The Lawrence School at Sanawar. Established in 1847, this heavily forested private boarding school’s history, influence, and wealth has made it one of the most prestigious schools in Asia.

Accommodation

There are ample accommodation choices available in Kasauli. From small cottages to guest houses to luxurious resorts, Kasauli has something to offer to everyone. One can also choose to stay at any of the well maintained and reasonably priced hotels associated with HP Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC). Some of the options include Maurice Hotel, Hotel R Maiden, Hotel Alasia and The Ros Common.

I stayed at The Ros Common, which is a colonial bungalow with its own old world charm along the Lower Mall road. This somewhat centrally located place, from local tourist spots, offers solitude without compelling one to become a recluse while appreciating the beauty of Kasauli.

Exploring Kasauli

At The Ros Common

Day 1: Since it’d rained the previous evening, the weather was nicely cold as I got on to the route leading to Kasauli. I put on my jacket as the car moved up hill towards Kasauli. I reach The Ros Common estate around 2:30 p.m. With the preliminaries underway, I make myself comfortable in the cosy and clean room facing the garden scattered with bright yellow flowers.

Having relished the freshly cooked warm meal, I laze around in the room for a while. It was getting cold and dark as the evening set in… After a hot cuppa evening chai in the cold weather, I walk around and explore the colonial property and the vicinity where I am staying.

Back at the hotel, it felt good to sit in the garden and enjoy the silence of the evening… it was getting chilly and so, post an early dinner, I return to the heater warmed room to retire for the day. Snuggled in a lohi quilt, I drift away into dreamland. 

Day 2: Post a good night’s sleep, I wake up early to birds chirping in the nicely cold weather. All happy and fresh, I decide to go for a walk on the road leading to Manki point. A healthy breakfast of warm paranthas and hot chocolate followed the leisurely morning walk. With no particular deadline to be met, I enjoy the early morning sunlight in the hotel garden before getting ready to explore the place.

My first stop is Hotel Alasia followed by the Christ Church.

Hotel Alasia: My first stop is the Hotel Alasia, which has a very plaid history and goes back to 1873, when the building was constructed. Towards late 1930, this was used as banking establishment. In 1938, C.J. Tidwell purchased the property. He was granted permission to convert the Bank into a Hotel in November 1941. The Hotel was named `Alasia' in honour of Pearl Alasia, a shrewd businesswoman and a close associate of Tidwell. What I found interesting here was the dummy thermometer near its outer wall at the entrance. The thermometer is a gift from Stephens Ink and has interesting measures for temperature reading.

Christ Church: Ahead on the Mall road, I visit the Christ Church, also known as the Church of England. The church with its plush interiors and stained glass paintings is a treat for art lovers. The architecture of this Church is influenced by a blend of Indian and Victorian styles. A coppice of chestnut and fir trees surround this 159-year-old structure that was established by British families who laid the foundation of Kasauli town.

Kalyan Café: Moving ahead as I stroll through the market place, I pass through the Kalyan Café, which has a statue of dog in its courtyard. The story goes such that, the owner was robbed off his money and his loyal dog sniffed out the thieves and saved him from loss. In remembrance of his faithful friend, the owner had a true to size statue of the dog made in England and installed it at his café. 

There’s also a statue of hockey wizard Captain Dhyanchand at the circle.

From here, I set out to explore the Upper Mall road that has most of the scenic points and important structures in Kasauli.

With ardour in the air, nature walk amidst the most picture-perfect surroundings is one of the most amazing things to experience in Kasauli. As I begin my ascend along the Upper Mall road, I pass by the CRI and Kasauli Club to reach the Sunset Point before heading further to explore the Gilbert Trail.

Central Research Institute (CRI): Central Research Institute was established in 1905 by Major David Semple. It is a premier National Institute engaged in many R&D activities. The anti-rabies inoculation was invented and is still made here. Also many anti snake bite vaccinations are made here. The CRI is well known for its Anti Rabic Vaccine, Yellow Fever Vaccine, Bacterial Vaccines like Anti Cholera and Anti Typhoid Vaccine, Prophylactic and Therapeutic Vaccine (for four commonly known poisonous snakes). One can also see the Doordarshan Tower near the CRI complex.

Kasauli Club: Established by civilians and service personnel in 1880, this is one of the famous clubs in Himachal Pradesh. Only members and the military officers serving in Kasauli are entertained here. Located in the Indian Army cantonment, Kasauli Club is on the Upper Mall at a height of 6142 feet. The water hydrant near the club is as functional as it was centuries ago.

Thus, non-members / tourists like me can have a photo-opportunity at the entrance and near the water hydrant, before moving on to the next point.

Sunset Point: Located on the Upper Mall road, 100 mts ahead of Kasauli Club is the Sunset Point. Sunset view from this place is a moment to treasure. After the sun sets one can see an eagle eye view of the far but clear bright lights of Chandigarh, Panchkula, Baddi, Nalagarh, Kalka and Pinjore. In fact once can clearly see Sukhana Lake as well. I visited the place on morning and the view then also was as breath-taking.

 

Gilbert Trail: I was told that the best time to visit Gilbert Trail is early morning just when the birds are waking up and chirping away. A little later in the morning, I reach the Gilbert Trail set amidst lofty hills, thick woods, and rich flora & fauna. It was serene yet engaging to walk through the gravelled muddy road of the nature trail. Cautiously treading along the route to reach the Land’s End point on Gilbert Trail is one of the best things to do in Kasauli. With some young college kids and a knowledgeable professor for company, I move along the along the narrow winding paths of rocky cliffs to reach the Land’s End point on Gilbert Trail. The serene and refreshing walk offers the best panoramic views of Himalayan peaks in the distance.

The Upper Mall road is lined with colonial and heritage residential properties owned by ex-army men and by families of some elite personalities, such as Khushwant Singh. All along the road, you see sign boards paying homage to our brave army men. If you are at Kasauli over the weekend, you can opt to view the Army Band performance in the evening on Friday, Saturday or Sunday at Upper Mall road. 

Some other places that you can walk around in Kasauli are the Manki Point, Sunrise Point and Kasauli Mall road.

• Manki / Monkey Point: Situated 4 kms from the bus stand along the Lower Mall road, Manki / Monkey point has a small temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. With the top of the hill shaped like a foot, local legend has it that while fetching the Sanjeevani herb for Laxman, Lord Hanuman's foot touched this spot. Being the highest point of Kasauli, you can soak in some scenic views here. The mighty Satluj River is seen coursing its way through the massive mountains. Fresh mountain breeze coupled with the echoing of temple bells is a serene experience that should not be missed.

• Sunrise Point: Situated on the Lower Mall road, approx. 350 mts ahead of The Ros Common is the Sunrise Point. It was formerly called as Hawa Ghar, since the point witnesses’ year round air current through it.

• Kasauli Market / Mall Road: For a small town that it is, the mall road provides flattering options for shopping and eating out. While most areas in Kasauli are off-beat, one must not miss this colourful hustle bustle of the town. The market is at its vibrant best during early evenings and an evening stroll here is highly recommended. I visited the Jakkimull’s, which is the largest and a three generation old outlet in Kasauli that stocks up almost everything a tourist may need. I bought some yummy local Bhuira jams and marmalades, Rajma, Seabuckthorn tea and Chuli Oil (Apricot Seed oil that is known to soothe joint pains). Bhuira and Minchy’s are well known local brands for jams, marmalades and pickles. Kasauli is also famous for its assortment of locally produced and reasonably priced fruit wines. Some of the popular flavors are apple wine, plum wine, sherry wine, peach wine, and black grape wine. The Lower Mall road is peppered with several Tibetan shops selling small handicrafts, woollens, hand woven shawls, stoles, and scarves.

Evening once am back at the hotel, I drop on the bed exhausted yet exhilarated with all the walking and exploring and breathing in the distinctly pure forest air. After a while, I freshen up and change into comfortable warm clothes to settle in for an early dinner. Slurping on the warm soup and I gaze far away in the clear, cold, starlit sky. Far into the horizon, Shimla lights were shimmering away marking the town’s presence from afar.

At Yadavindra Gardens (Pinjore Gardens)

Day 3: With a heavy heart, I pack my bags to head home from quaint, peaceful and soothing Kasauli. Post a light breakfast while basking in the warm sunshine, I check out of The Ros Common and head back to Chandigarh.

On way I make a pit stop at Yadavindra Gardens, formerly known as Pinjore Gardens, which was renovated by the Patiala Dynasty Jat Sikh Rulers. This historic 17^th century garden located in Pinjore city of Panchkula district reflects the Mughal Gardens architectural style. Nawab Fadai Khan, a great architect and foster brother of the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb is said to have designed the garden on the classical Charbagh pattern. Both sides of the central waterway are covered with green areas bordered with flowers and shaded by trees. Nawab Fadai Khan Nawab Fadai Khan supervised the construction of the aesthetic Sheesh Mahal, the Rang Mahal, and the cube-like Jal Mahal. Post a quick bite at the garden restaurant, I head to Chandigarh airport to board my flight to Mumbai…

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Kasauli is an ideal getaway when you need a break from the hectic city life. You realize the tranquility of Kasauli even more, when you are hit by Mumbai’s sweltering 35℃ and the perpetually stuck in traffic life...