A Wanderer's Bookmark - 05

Marveling Majestic Mamallapuram (a.k.a Mahabalipuram)

It’s been a while since I have last travelled. So, when I got an opportunity where I could set off to explore a UNESCO World Heritage site of Mamallapuram (a.k.a Mahabalipuram), there was no way I was letting it pass (even if it meant visiting the place during the hot and humid off-season time). The historic town is located approximately 60 kms from Chennai on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal and is resplendent with 6^th to 8^th century heritage and stories of the lore.

Babu, my driver for the day, arrives by 7.45 a.m. in Toyota Etios. We leave from T. Nagar in Chennai around 8:00 a.m. to explore Mahabalipuram via the Eastern Coastal Road (ECR). Aim is to peacefully pack in as much punch as I possibly can in a day’s time.

As we leave Chennai behind, we pass through the striking VGP Golden Beach Resort. Babu tells me that this is one of the largest and premium resorts around and worth exploring if one has the time.

A little further down, about 30 kms from Chennai city, is the MGM Dizzee World. Designed by Italian architects on a huge lush green area against the scenic blue beach front of the ECR, at Muttukadu, MGM Dizzee World is one of the largest theme parks in the country. If you are travelling with kids or enjoy adventure rides, I’d highly recommend reserving an extra day to visit this amusement park. Since am running short on time, I breeze through the park making a mental note to visit it whenever am around next.

Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa

My first half for the day is at a distance of little over 30 kms from Chennai at Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa. I’d heard such good reviews of the place that I was eagerly looking forward to visit it. On reaching this Taj Vivanta property along Covelong (Kovalam) Beach, I was blown away by its scenic location, understated simplicity, warmth of the staff and the amazing food spread. Beach, Birds, Books, Coconut Water, Beer / Wine or even better the deliciously aromatic Filter Kaapi served here totally sorts you out.

By the Covelong (Kovalam) Beach

I hogged on the healthy, tasty and freshly cooked breakfast buffet at their all-day diner – Seagull. The Filter Kaapi (Coffee) served here is one the best I’ve ever had. The taste lingers and the memory of the brew is still as fresh! The kitchen curates specials menu for calorie-conscious fitness enthusiasts as well as young guests. The experience is absolute value for money (VFM) all the way!

If budget permits, it's a must visit – must stay property. You can enjoy the sand, the surf and the sea breeze with lush gardens and swinging palms. Stretch or lounge around on the deck chairs across the property or explore the refreshingly breezy open spaces. The premium sea facing villas open right on to the pristine beach. It's like having your own private access to a serene, virgin beach. There’s a wealth of character and experiences that’ll keep you captivated in the charisma of this seaside paradise as you gaze out at the Bay of Bengal. Taj Fisherman’s Cove Resort and Spa is the place to be if you are seeking some peace and rejuvenation in the lap of luxury close to nature. Very modern. Very in.

Madras Crocodile Bank and Centre for Herpetology

Entrance - Madras Crocodile Bank

Satiated and fulfilled with the scrumptious breakfast buffet, my next stop is the Crocodile Park. The Croc Bank was formed in 1976 to promote the conservation of reptiles and amphibians and their habitats through education, scientific research and captive breeding. Today Croc Bank is home to 17 species of crocodilians, three of which are listed by the IUCN as critically endangered with a further three listed as threatened. Adults and kids will enjoy visiting the park. There is also a snake show where the staff / volunteer explain snake behaviour while having a Python coiled around his shoulder. I was done exploring the place with a half an hour normal paced walk through tour of the enclosures and cages.

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From Crocodile Park, I move on to discovering the historical monuments and sites in Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram). Starting from Panch Rathas, moving on to the Mahishamardini Rock Cut Cave temple, Light House, Shore Temple, Arjuna's Penance and concluding with Krishna's Butterball. Babu has been a kind and patient guide. I buy an entry ticket worth Rs. 40/-, which is valid across few other places I would be visiting during the day.

To better understand the story and significance of the places I’d be visiting, I availed services of a government approved guide. For a reasonable cost of Rs. 500/- for approx. three hours, I had guide Lakshmanji take me around the ancient city.

The Panch Rathas

Standing majestically on the southernmost extreme of Mahabalipuram are The Panch Rathas rock marvels. Constructed from multiple materials, these monolithic structures or the ‘Rathas’ are cut in the form of chariots and have bas-relief sculptures carved on it.

The Panch Ratha Complex

Standing below a tree shade, Lakshmanji explains that though these temples are named after the legendary Pandavas; Yudhistara, Arjuna, Bhima, Nakula & Sahadeva and their wife Draupadi, they are not related to Mahabharata. The Panch Rathas were built as models of South Indian temples by Pallava ruler Narsimha Varman 1 (AD 630- 68) around the 7^th century. They are not used for worship as they are not consecrated. 

There are in all eight structures in the complex – 5 chariot temples and 3 animals (Lion – Vehicle of Devi Durga, Nandi Bull – Vehicle of Lord Shiva and Elephant – Vehicle of Lord Indra). Most of these structures are incomplete yet enchanting in their own distinct way.

Draupadi Ratha

• Draupadi Ratha: The Draupadi Ratha is the smallest of Panch Rathas. This shrine with amazing artwork is shaped like a thatched hut, with a square roof. The fine carved panel shows Devi Durga on a lotus pedestal.
• Dharmaraja Ratha (Yudhisthir’s Ratha): Shaped like a characteristic vimana (tower above the shrine), the three storeyed Dharmaraja Ratha is the most magnificent and tallest of the five structures. The shrine is devoted to Lord Shiva and is adorned with one of the best examples of early Pallava art. The pillars are adorned with beautifully carved statues of deities such Ardhanarishvara (half Parvati, half Shiva), Harihara (half Vishnu, half Shiva), Brahma, Skanda, Bhairava and other forms of Shiva.
• Bhima Ratha: Built in Gopura style with gabled roof, Bhima Ratha is the massive of the Five Rathas. The unfinished yet fascinating building is said to be devoted to Anantshayi Vishnu. The sanctuary has a circumambulatory passage around it. Pillars of the shrine are adorned with figures of lions.

  

  (Nandi) Bull's Eye View of Arjuna Ratha

• Arjuna Ratha: The Arjuna Ratha is devoted to Lord Shiva. Shaped like a small wooden shrine, it is an impressive building with a distinctive southern Indian style. The facade is adorned with magnificent sculptures, showing gods and humans.
• Nakula Sahadeva Ratha: This shrine is devoted to Lord Indra and is associated with elephants. This ratha is the only one which is not placed in a "procession”. The roof of this shrine is also shaped like a back of elephant.

Lakshmanji let me in on an interesting trivia about the two names of the place. As the legend goes, Mamallapuram was earlier knows as Mahabalipuram because the demon king Mahabali was killed by Lord Vishnu here. The name was changed later by the king of Pallava Narashima Varman who has got the title of Mamalla; the great wrestler. Mamallapuram means the land of wrestlers.

Having explored The Panch Rathas, we get into the car and head towards our next destination for the day. Climbing up a flight of high stairs in the humid and scorchingly hot weather, we reach the Mahishamardini Rock Cut Mandapam. The Light House stands a few meters away from it.

Mahishamardini Rock Cut Mandapam

The Mahishamardini Mandapam is one of the 14 cave temples and other splendid architectures. The temple is named after one of the carved depictions that show eight-armed Goddess Durga defeating the demon-king Mahishasura. This unfinished temple lies at the base of a hillock, along with Olakneswara Temple that is built on its top. The Mandapa has three shrines connected to a central hall.

Lakshmanji explains the three shrines at the Mandapa.

Mahishasuramardini Rock Panel

The central shrine is a large rock relief of Somaskanda, with Lord Shiva seated in a Sukhasana (cross-legged) yoga posture and Goddess Parvati next to him with the infant Skanda. Behind them are a standing Brahma, Vishnu and Surya.

On the northern wall of the temple hall is one of the most intricately sculpted rock panel of Mahishasuramardini legend. While the army of 7 demons accompany Mahishasura, the Goddess has 8 ganas. 

Anantasayi Vishnu Rock Panel

Lakshmanji quizzed me if I could figure out who’s winning on the panel. I replied that I am aware that the Goddess wins. So he goes on to explain that if you closely at the panel, the Goddess is marching forward and has more ganas than the demon Mahisasura who’s retracting and also has lesser soldiers in his army.

On the southern wall of the hall is a carving of the Anantasayi, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu reclining on five-headed king of snakes, known as Ananta Shesha. Just below it is the sculpture of Bhu Devi (Mother Earth).

Lighthouse

Having paid obeisance at the Mahisamardini Mandapa, I walk up to the (new) Lighthouse that stands a few meters away. Lakshmanji guides on the way but decides to wait near the Mahishamardini Mandapam while I make my way towards the new lighthouse. At an entry fee of Rs. 10/-, I climb up the steep 75 to 80 steps at the circular masonry lighthouse made of natural stone. The narrow spiral staircase allows only one person at a time to climb up or down and one needs to be careful lest the foot slips. In the highly humid climate, the lighthouse was a soothing, cool place to be. The view from the top is magnificent and serene.

View from the New Lighthouse

From the new lighthouse I could also view one of the oldest lighthouse in India, built around 640 A.D. by King Mahendra Pallava. The Olakkanesvara temple is perched on the rock above the Mahishamardini cave temple is also known as the Old Lighthouse because of its conversion by British officials. Its name is modern, based on the "ollock of oil" per day, which was burnt by local residents to keep the temple flame lit.

The Shore Temple

Babu, Lakshmanji & I have refreshing coconut water to stay hydrated in the unbearable afternoon sun. Undeterred by the sultry weather, we head to The Shore Temple, which is almost 10 minutes away from the Lighthouse. Erected on a 50 feet square platform, the Shore Temple is a 60 feet high pyramidal structure reflecting the characteristics of Dravidian temple architecture. It is one of the oldest structural stone temples of southern India devoted to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu.

The Shore Temple

Lakshmanji takes me through the temple, which has intricately sculptured interiors and exteriors in an incredibly real and artistic style. Magnificent relics of Nandi bull beautify the temple’s compound wall. Shore Temple is no more a temple worshipped. The temple basks in the glow of the first rays of the rising sun and spotlights the waters after sunset.

The temple complex also houses the remnants of a docking port for ships with warehouse adjacent to it and also a wrestling arena. It’s amazing how well planned the cities were even in the 6^th century. Having marvelled at the Shore Temple, it’s time to move to the remaining two cave monuments for the day with Babu and Lakshmanji.

Arjuna's Penance

We reach Arjuna’s Penance, which is one of the magnificent air relief of Mahabalipuram that dates back to the mid-7^th century. This 43 feet tall monolith is carved on two huge adjoining boulders. The subject of the majestic structure is either Arjuna's Penance or the Descent of the Ganges, or possibly both.

Lakshmanji explained both these stories referencing the monolith representation. ‘Arjuna's Penance’ is an extract from the Mahabharata, of how Arjuna performed severe austerities in order to obtain Shiva's weapon. The ‘Descent of Ganges’ story narrates the penance of Bhagirathi who performed austerities in order to bring Goddess Ganges down to earth. Lord Shiva consented to break the force of the descent of the river with his hair.

Arjuna's Penance

The composition of the relief includes scenes of the natural and celestial worlds. A natural cleft populated by Nagas (snakes) separates the two halves of the relief. Water pours down this fissure imitating a waterfall or the Ganges' descent. Just above the shrine, Arjuna or Bhagiratha is carved standing on one leg, his arms upraised, in a yoga posture. Behind him appears Lord Shiva, holding a weapon and attended by celestial beings. In the natural world life-sized elephants are shown protect their young. There are also numerous other animals. The entire presentation is a visual treat and is done with utmost skill.

Krishna's Butterball

Less than 5 minutes from Arjuna’s Penance is Krishna’s Butterball. This gigantic boulder rests on a slope, and is said to have been at the same place for 1200 years. How it has managed to stay in the same place on such a small base, remains an unsolved mystery.

With Lakshmanji near Krishna's Butterball

With all the key monuments covered, it’s time to bid adieu to Lakshmanji who peacefully took me around Mahabalipuram a.k.a Mamallapuram explaining the stories and legends for each and also doubling up as my photographer for the day. As a parting note, Lakshmanji asks me to check out YouTube where he’s seen alongside actor Aamir Khan when he visited Mahabalipuram. Lo behold! A celebrity guide took me around the place. Check out Lakshmanji’s videos with Aamir Khan here – Lakshmanji 01 and Lakshmanji 02.

I enjoy a nice cool glass of lemon soda that is locally available outside all tourist places. It’s a refreshing and welcome way to beat the August heat in Tamil Nadu. Besides staying hydrated, ensure you have applied enough sunblock and are carrying your sunglasses when exploring Mamallapuram during the day. And yes, a cap or any other comfortable head gear would be great to have as well!

Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir

Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir

As I drove along the ECR, my next stop was at Munisuvratswami Jain Navgraha Mandir. It was a soothing feeling to experience the peace and calm at this pristine white Derasarji. Short outfits aren’t allowed inside the temple. Therefore, one can borrow a wraparound lungi / dhoti from the temple office, if you have unexpectedly landed up there just like I did.

DakshinaChitra

My next and last stop for the day is DakshinaChitra, which is a cross cultural living museum of art, architecture, lifestyle, craft and performing arts of southern India. The museum is located at Muttukadu, 25 kms south of Central Chennai, along the ECR to Mamallapuram.

DakshinaChitra has a collection of 18 authentic historical houses with contextual exhibitions in each house. All the houses bought and reconstructed at DakshinaChitra had been given for demolition by their owners. The authentic homes in a regional style are purchased, taken down, transported and reconstructed by artisans (Stapathis) of the regions where the houses belong. There are also various workshops and live performances that one can participate in. This was a perfect end to a great day!

With wonderful memories from Mamallapuram, I commence my journey back to Chennai already thinking where I would travel next.

A Wanderer's Bookmark - 04